Embedded Files
GM/GMC cluster needle lighting
GM/GMC cluster needle lighting
This is a set of (7) or (35) PCBs which mount directly to the stepper motors of a 2003 - 2007.5 GM/chevrolet/escalade truck/suv gauge cluster. A TVS diode offers protection, and (4) LEDs are used to provide illumination.
power via the pads for regular backlighting. Mounting holes for the light tube are 16mm apart.
color of the LEDs should be specified upon order -- each set is hand soldered per order.
Colors available: White, Blue, Red, Green, Ice Blue, Golden Yellow, Orange
all orders will include mounting screws and PETG 3D printed light guides.
(you may or may not receive the exact board pictured. fret not, the function of the boards are the exact same, just different revisions.)
all orders are processed with PayPal
the installation deets
the installation deets
Light tubes have been redesigned, and are now shipping with all orders. Requires half the screws, and simplifies installation
-- Tyler
while I am trying to source proper screws, please bear with me. --- you may be provided with a mix of screws seen at the right, and those below. be aware that those having a flat face should be used for the 3D printed tube and the pan head should be used to secure board to stepper. the smallest screws seen here are countersinking screws. it is advised to use a 1/4" drill bit to create the counter sink space in the board before installing light tube, as shown in the photo. [light is a bit bright]
These are provided with 2 sets of screws, a bit of wire, and 3D printed (PETG) light isolators. -- 6mm and 8mm screws -- 6mm for tube -> board -- 8mm for board -> stepper motor
The shorter screws should be used to affix the light isolator tube to the board with the 2 inner holes. Doesn't need to be super tight because affixing the board to the stepper motor will prevent the screws from backing out along with the holes of the light tube being threaded for the first time as you screw them in.
Disassemble gauge cluster and place the board on each stepper motor, then use the screws to secure light tube to the stepper motor. == While waiting for the soldering iron to heat up, the wires can be prepared -- depending on which old IDE cable was repurposed, cut the (7) wire (longer) piece in half and separate into either groups of 2, or all individually. With this piece, you will have 1 pair that is separated. A wide set(14) can be simply split into groups of 2. Polarity is important for LEDs -- be mindful of this. Now go ahead and simply solder the wires to the board, and then to the pads of one of the backlights.
At this point, the clear plastic piece needs to be modified. As you can notice, there exists a form of light guidance near the holes of where the needles pass through. All (7) need to be reamed out to at least the lip, and an angle formed on the under side for this to properly sit flush with the rest of the cluster.
You may also be creative and use your own method to block the light of these boards from the back lighting --
Using a drill is not recommended, but if that's all you have, be careful. I personally use a Dremel with a metal deburring bit, as it takes off a lot of acrylic very fast and easily.
I also sand the acrylic to have a frosty appearance to enhance LED back-light scattering. There's some back-light colors that do not propagate well and give the cluster 'hot spots' where the LED is, and darker areas where there isn't. It's also an absolute great idea to test functionality before full reassembly. Be aware -- some of these are bright as heck, and will induce spots in your vision!
After you've achieved getting the clear piece to sit flush and sanding to form a frost, add your overlay, set your needles, and snap it all together. The lense will help hold the clear piece into the mid section.
Enjoy
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